You know all about Millennium Park, Chicago's latest lakefront playground: You've splashed in the Crown Fountain, attended a concert at the Pritzker Pavilion, and made funhouse faces at the "Bean" (Anish Kapoor's groundbreaking sculpture, Cloud Gate). But leave the camcordered throngs behind and you'll discover a world-class city with a cosmopolitan quirkiness that belies its Midwest locale. Here, seven great ways to see Chicago with fresh eyes.

1. Chicago Architecture Foundation's Architecture River Cruise
To understand Chicago, follow its lifeblood: the Chicago River. This 90-minute boat ride reveals a unique perspective of the city — its back side, with panoramas juxtaposing historic and modern landmarks, and closeups of everything from soaring skyscrapers to squat warehouses. You'll get the lowdown on more than 50 famous buildings as well as what it takes to build a city: how engineers dealt with the Loop's railroad tracks, why the course of the river was reversed in 1900, and why the trunnion bascule bridge was invented (to allow Michigan Avenue to cross) and why that matters. Tours depart May 3-Nov. 23 from Riverside Gardens ($28-$30; 847-358-1330; cruisechicago.com); buy tickets in advance and arrive 30 minutes early.

2. Loyola University Museum of Art
Little museums are ideal if you only have an hour or two — after the cruise, stroll up the Magnificent Mile to this newcomer, one of Chicago's best ($6; 312-915-7600; luc.edu/luma). The permanent exhibition, Gilded Glory: European Treasures from the Martin D'Arcy Collection of Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque Art, is tucked into three third-floor rooms; other highlights include French Gothic ivories, paintings by Tintoretto and Guercino, and a 13thcentury reliquary of Champlevé enamel, gilded copper, and cabochon crystals from Limoges, France. For a break, sample the seasonal selection of house-made gelato and sorbetto at Cafe Spiaggia (312-280-2750).

3. Chicago Cultural Center
This Beaux Arts beauty (312-744-6630; chicagoculturalcenter.org) was dedicated in 1897 as the first permanent home of the Chicago Public Library and regularly hosts theater and music groups as well as free art exhibits in the galleries and hallways; don't miss Life as a Legend: Marilyn Monroe July 19-Sept. 21, with 300 works by artists such as Andy Warhol, Richard Avedon, and Henri Cartier-Bresson. The building's artistry peaks in Preston Bradley Hall, an opulent fantasy of Moorish-inspired mosaics, curving arches, and Tiffany chandeliers crowned by a 38-footdiameter stained-glass dome said to be the largest by Tiffany in the world.

4. Navy Pier
Sure, the Pier (312-595-7437; navypier.com) is terminally touristy, but bypass the obvious and you'll find gems like the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, the glassenclosed Crystal Gardens, a Ferris wheel, and the Chicago Shakespeare Theater, whose courtyard theater is modeled on the Elizabethan-era Swan Theatre. To make a day of it, pick up picnic fixings at Fox & Obel on East Illinois Street (312-410-7301, fox-obel.com) on your way, then walk to the east end past the domed auditorium to catch the breeze and watch the boats glide by.

5. Pilsen
Chicago's dynamic ethnic neighborhoods are legion, but this Mexican enclave is particularly vibrant. The National Museum of Mexican Art (312-738-1503; nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org) is the country's largest Latino cultural organization, and the galleries, shops, bakeries, and cafes along Halsted and 18th streets are always worth a browse. For an authentic bite, try Carnitas Uruapan (312-226-2654) or enjoy a sophisticated meal at Mundial Cocina Mestiza (312-491-9908).

6. Trendy Neighborhoods
Lincoln Square, Wicker Park/Bucktown, East Village, Lakeview, and Andersonville overflow with boutiques, hip restaurants, theaters, and other intriguing outings: Shop along North Southport Avenue, coupled with pub food at Cullen's Bar and Grill (773-975-0600) and a film at the handsomely restored Music Box Theatre (773-871-6604) or a show at the Mercury Theater (773-325-1700). Stroll Wicker Park/Bucktown's Division Street and North and Damen avenues, then enjoy an upscale American-French-Japanese fusion dinner at the new Takashi (773-772-6170) or wood-oven flatbreads on the patio at Crust (773-235-5511). In Lincoln Square, dine in the garden at Bistro Campagne (773-271-6100) and take in a show at the Old Town School of Folk Music (773-728-6000). Hit the shops along the East Village's Chicago Avenue, including the 12,000-squarefoot Alcala's Western Wear (312-266-0152), refresh with stylish vegetarian fare at Green Zebra (312-243-7100), and go clubbing at Sonotheque (312-226-7600).

7. Randolph Street Market District
A short cab ride west of downtown (getting a lift back can be a challenge) lies a great concentration of trendy restaurants, from chef/co-owner Paul Kahan's minimalist Blackbird (312-715-0708) and more casual communal-table Avec (312-377-2002) to Ina Pinkney's homey Ina's (312-226-8227), a local favorite for breakfast and brunch. Or try newer spots nearby, such as Sepia (312-441-1920), where Chef Kendal Duque serves up seasonal dishes like slow-baked veal breast, and Macello (312-850-9870), specializing in wood-oven pizzas and the cucina of Puglia.