The Best of Hawaii
From black sands to white peaks, a celebration of the perfections of paradise
By Jay CowanBEACHES
Hawaii is all about beaches, and its islands are distinguished by some of the most legendary ones, each infused with coral, lava, and myth. Palm-fringed Mauna Kea Beach, a quarter-moon of South Pacific perfection on the Big Island, is considered one of the planet's best, with beautiful, crystalline waters for snorkeling, and nighttime manta-ray viewing from shore. Pololu Valley Beach, also on the northwestern tip of the Big Island, is an almost unfathomable swath of tiny black gemstones, though swimming here is not advisable.
Kauai's North Shore beaches are no less impressive, particularly the miles-long sweep of sand that hugs vast, placid Hanalei Bay, and Tunnels Beach, known for its excellent surfing and snorkeling as well as Mount Makana, the distinctive peak that "played" Bali Hai in the film South Pacific; between the two is exotically alluring Lumahai Beach, a beautiful but treacherous strip of coast.
LOCAL COLOR
Hawaii's classic luaus are more than just an excuse to gorge on local delicacies while watching hula girls. They're a favorite way for visitors to relive the islanders' ancient tradition of commemorating important occasions with lavish feasts.
In fact, Hawaii teems with enriching diversions. The lavish Polynesian Cultural Center, a living encyclopedia of all things Polynesian, is a must-see on any visit to Oahu. History looms large on the Big Island at Puukohola Heiau, a powerful example of the sacred stone temples that were central to the ancient native religion, and also at Puuhonua O Honaunau, the City of Refuge, where those who had broken sacrosanct taboos sought absolution.
Slack-key guitar concerts, held weekly on most islands, celebrate this distinctive musical technique, purportedly invented in the 1850s by Hawaiian cowboys, or paniolos - whose culture is itself commemorated at the Big Island's Parker Ranch with tours, horseback riding, and a hall of fame.
And no visit to Hawaii would be complete without a nod to its iconic sport: the choice surfing at Oahu's North Shore, where fans hang with the heavyweights at fabled breaks such as Sunset and Pipeline.
SPORTS
Hawaii's craggy, gorgeous landscape was made for active pursuits. The Kalalau hiking trail offers the only land access along Kauai's Na Pali Coast, though only seasoned hikers should attempt the entire 11-mile route; the trek from Pololu Valley to Honokane Nui Valley on the Big Island is similarly rugged and remote. A bicycle ride down Haleakala volcano on Maui is uniquely invigorating.
Leaving dry land, water-sports enthusiasts can surf Oahu's legendary beaches, dive the black coral reefs of the Big Island, snorkel the Molokini Crater (an extinct volcano off the coast of Maui), or enjoy windsurfing and kiteboarding at Maui's Ho'okipa Park.
And then there's the skiing. Yep, skiing - after all, Hawaii is essentially a vast undersea mountain range. The slopes of the Big Island's Mauna Kea volcano, nearly 14,000 feet up, host skiing and snowboarding for adventurous types amid the world's largest array of telescopes.
DINING
It's possible (and for some, positively mandatory) to eat one's way through Hawaii with three daily servings of tender, mouth-watering ahi sashimi or poke. But beyond the temptations of glistening seafood on the fin, many delight in sampling some of the world's best Pacific Rim fusion cuisine, invented right here by star chefs and local restaurateurs Roy Yamaguchi and Sam Choy.
Hawaii's most highly rated restaurant is La Mer at the Halekulani in Honolulu, which features a menu of neoclassical French dishes made with the finest local ingredients available, such as the crispy-skin onaga with pork confit and truffle jus. Other musts include the four-diamond Pahu i'a at the Four Seasons Hualalai on the Big Island, and The Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, on Maui.
NATURE
One of the most impressive natural spectacles on Earth - and seemingly one of the most photographed - is molten lava exploding into the sea like fireworks at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. Dramatic views are likewise the calling card of Kauai, a natural wonderland blessed with the brilliant red ravines of Waimea Canyon, stunning scenery along the Na Pali Coast, and the extremely rare birds of the Alakai Wilderness Preserve. Oahu's Waimea Falls Park also boasts exotic fowl and foliage, while Maui's lush, tropical Seven Pools are justly world famous.
ROMANCE
Pack a picnic and some Lava Flow cocktails (lots of rum blended with strawberries, a banana, pineapple juice, and coconut cream), rent a kayak, and paddle up Kauai's Wailua River. For cozy seclusion, avoid the packed tourist trap at the "romantic" Fern Grotto; instead, take the right channel as far as possible, then hike in to stunning (and often deserted) Wailua Falls.
POOLS
When it comes to getting wet and wild, even destination water parks could learn a thing or two from Maui's Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa: Its Wailea Canyon Activity Pool is a veritable aquatic smorgasbord, with the world's only water elevator, a 2,000-foot long, rapids-strewn swimming "river" connecting nine pools that drop in six stages down to sea level, a Tarzan rope swing, and myriad waterfalls and slides. Not to be outdone, the Hilton Waikoloa Village on the Big Island features a colossal water recreation area, highlighted by meandering swimming pools with slides, rope bridges, and walk-through waterfalls; a four-acre saltwater lagoon perfect for snorkeling among the resident sea turtles; and an interactive dolphin-encounter center.
FLIGHTSEEING
Most of the islands have helicopter rides, but Kauai's is arguably the best: Besides the incredible views coming up over the Waimea Canyon ridge and along the Na Pali Coast, the big birds often take guests to hover inside Waialeale crater, a leading contender for the wettest patch of land on the planet.
SECRETS
Lanai's Polihua Beach may not be the easiest place to reach, but it's worth the effort: The trek - which requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle - winds along dirt roads, past abandoned pineapple fields, and through the ghostly rock formations of the Garden of the Gods before yielding an amazing view of the neighboring island of Molokai (itself worth a visit for a mule ride to the old leper colony).










